![]() Upgraded anti-roll bars and a refreshed geometry alignment will do wonders to the way your R32 handles.Of course, there’s plenty of aftermarket rotors and pads available for the R32 as well. R33s and R34s came with Brembo brake kits, so if you can find a set of those, it’ll be a great way to improve your R32’s stopping power while keeping things OEM.Happily, you can get HICAS eliminator kits to delete that function from your R32. Not everyone likes how Super HICAS rear-steering feels when you push the car to its limits.Of course, there’s also a wide array of coilover options out there too for optimal adjustability. If you’ve got a bog standard R32, fitting it with some simple V-Spec springs & dampers can help the car to feel more athletic.Not happy with the feel of the ATESSA limited-slip differentials? Well, OS Giken offers uprated ‘Superlock’ LSDs for both axles.Companies like Link, Motec, or Haltech produce standalone aftermarket ECU maps for the R32 – a great way to free up some extra ponies, while keeping your engine’s health monitored too.We’ve collated some of the best Skyline exhausts around – check them out here. The R32’s stock exhaust system is quite restrictive, so to get those gases flowing more efficiently, consider getting some performance-oriented pipework.If your chasing bigger figures, you’ll need to upgrade those elements of the car too. Those bolt-ons tend to top out at 500PS, which is intentional, as that’s roughly the maximum that the standard fuel pump, injectors and air flow systems can handle. You can also go bigger with aftermarket turbos from the likes of HKS or Garrett. Steel turbines will endure much better than the (likely worn) ceramic ones that came in the car’s stock turbo set-up. ![]() Here’s some of the key areas to focus on: Powertrain Upgrades That they certainly did, and these days there’s now a very strong aftermarket for performance-enhancing R32 parts. As a result, that meant that there was a mountain of untapped potential lurking in the R32’s engine bay, just waiting for tuners to get their hands on it. So, although roadgoing examples didn’t have the same performance credentials as their circuit-bound counterparts, they did share the same core engineering. In Japan it was literally unbeatable, and in Australia it caused enough of a stir for the Aussies to brandish it with that ‘Godzilla’ nickname. Nissan originally intended for the R32 GT-R to conquer the world of Group A racing, and it certainly did that. It was the first car to be equipped with the much-loved RB26 engine, and also brought with it features such as ATESSA-ETS all-wheel drive and Super HICAS rear steering. The R32 GT-R heralded the arrival of some major Nissan innovations. So, whether you own a Bathurst-beating R32, or a supercar-baiting R35, here’s some of our top tips for tuning a Nissan GT-R. Would it be better to have the VQ37 built up to be able to withstand a lot of boost, or would it just be better to do a swap for an rb26dett and then go from there, knowing already that the motor can take it.Whether it be the RB26 or VR38 engines, the all-wheel drive, or even just the stocky styling there’s plenty to get excited about with these cars. In a few years, we'll know what kits, and what methods are the best with our engines, but then i started thinking. Then once i need another, more practical car for every day use, i figure i'd turn it into my project car, and do a turbo build. Instead of doing bolt ons etc now, i figured i'd keep my car stock for a few years and just enjoy it for what it is. I was just driving along the other day, thinking about potential mods. The 2JZGTE from the Supra is also a ball tearer of a motor for big boost. My old R32 GTR ran in the 11's on street tyres and stock turbos with just minor upgrades. No one really does this as the RB26 is a stronger motor out of the factory.and the fact GTR's run intelligent 4WD makes them one the best value for money street drag cars ever. It's also a LOT easier to fit large turbos to a straight motor rather than a V motor from an engine bay space perspctive. ![]() A full teardown and rebuild is the only real option to drop the compression which is costly. ![]() This is not ideal for forced induction, as the high compression doesn't leave much room for increased boost and becomes difficult to tune and avoid pre-detonation. The VQ like in our 370'z is a non turbo motor, so it makes power by running really high compression at 11:1 and clever variable valve lift and duration. All factory turbo motors like the RB and SR series run low compression at around 8:1 which is ideal for forced induction. ![]()
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